Friday, June 18, 2010

An apple a day . . .


The Word of Chi

The weather is heating up here in Southern California and the earthquakes are a shaking . . but don’t let that stop you from cranking out a chilled soup. Apples are just about coming into season or at least they are fruiting on my homely looking fiji apple tree growing in my backyard. I have fond childhood memories of harvesting the crabapples from this scrappy looking tree at the base of “the big hill” and making batches of homemade apple sauce with Ms. Ebby. That was always a treat and although that apple sauce didn’t necessarily look the prettiest it sure tasted better than anything manufactured by Motts!

What happened to those days? I’m talking about foraging in the wild and family oriented cooking. Certainly this is a little more difficult to accomplish in the land of California as the “wild” has been tamed and paved . . . but perhaps we should collectively approach this as no more than a “culinary challenge” Going back to apples – they are coming in and they have so much versatility and connection to the nostalgic hearth of family cooking be it old fashioned apple pie, apple cobbler, apple chutney . . . and it happens to pair up quite nicely with any glass of sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio Now you do have to educate yourself a bit on the best suited apple for any given purpose (kind of like deciding what swimsuit to wear depending on what flesh is best to hide or showcase!). I’m not even going to be begin to tackle the pleathora of apple varieties on the market but I can tell you that Chef Scotty only works with McIntosh when comes to pie time & Fiji or Braeburn for artisan cheeseboards.

Celery root is in fact a variety of celery selected for it’s bulb which is crisp, yielding a earthy root flavor and less starchy than is Caribbean sister, jicama. Combine celeriac (the other name for celery root) with green apple and you have a refreshing soup for the summer heat. (certainly feel free to serve warm, leave out the half-n-half for a lactose free soup or blend it all up for a delicious raw soup). Make the most of your Sundays as June rolls out and the Summer sun shines bright!

With Culinary Blessings,

Chef Scotty

Celery Root-Green Apple Sip

ingredients
3 medium leeks (3/4 lb), white and pale green parts only
3 bacon slices (2 oz) - topping
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 1/2 lb celery root, peeled with a knife and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
3 cups water
1 3/4 cups white wine (pinot grigio, sauvignon blanc etc.)
1 Granny Smith apple
3/4 celery rib, very thinly sliced on a long diagonal (1/2 cup)
1/3 cup inner celery leaves
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/2 cup half-and-half

preparation
Halve leeks lengthwise, then coarsely chop. Wash leeks in a bowl of cold water, agitating them, then lift out onto paper towels and pat dry.

Cook bacon in a 4-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, turning occasionally, until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to paper towels.

Pour off all but 2 teaspoons fat from pot, then add oil and cook leeks over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add celery root and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add water and wine and bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, until celery root is very tender, 35 to 40 minutes.

While soup simmers, thinly slice apple lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices with slicer, working around core, then cut slices into 1/8-inch matchsticks with a knife. Gently toss with celery and celery leaves.

Purée soup in batches in a blender until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids), transferring to a bowl. Return soup to cleaned pot. (If soup is too thick, thin with 1/2 to 3/4 cup water.) Stir in salt, pepper, and half-and-half and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until warm (or keep keep cold for a refreshing summer soup). Season with salt, then divide among 4 bowls and top with apple-celery mixture and coarsely crumbled bacon.

Cooks' note:
Soup, without half-and-half, can be made 1 day ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat over moderately low heat, then add half-and-half and cook until heated through. Garnish and Go

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