Friday, July 30, 2010

Holy Moly Poly Aioli - Chile Me Baby!



After some contemplation or shall we say exhaustion in setting up our new restaurant - I return to you refreshed, replenished with new culinary vision and creativity. As many remain fearful of cooking with chile ridden Latin American food for it’s propensity to overtake the bouquet of a polished Oregon Pinot . . I wish to show you that the plethora of customary hispanic spices (and mild chilies) can indeed enhance the wine & food pairings or in any case . . save not so good Lodi Zinfandel

We begin with Canela. What is that you ask? Cinnamon, in a more pure less peppery form and whence added to a superstar seasoning blend of star anise, garlic, pinch of cumin, orange juice, pasilla chile powder & fresh bunch of cilantro . . you’ve got some epicurean ecstasy to play with that will pair up with that bold syrah you’ve been holding on to. Corn masa is a great manner to diffuse the heat especially when paired up with some variation of cream sauce or the forever American favored guacamole. A tomatillo (not actually of the tomato family) will inspire any dish with a burst of fresh sour in balance sweetness meanwhile the nopale (cactus leaf) will sedate any dish. Getting any ideas yet?

Your more common “mild” dry chilies are going to be: New Mexico, Guajillo, Ancho & Pasilla and it is my humble recommendation that you descend upon a near by Hispanic market for these items as you will save money and ensure freshness (with Mexico less than 15 minutes away there is no need to patronize Albertsons). When it comes to that heat you must understand the dimensions of a working with a fresh chile.

Numero Uno in heat is the seed, then comes the membrane (the white lining inside), outer skin and finally the flesh. You can easily roast your own chilies if you have a gas stove by charring the outside black on all sides. Remove from the flame, toss in a bowl and quickly seran wrap – this will steam off the majority of the skin. After five minutes, you remove the chilies and wash off the skins under cold water, then split and remove the seeds & membrane . . now you have nothing but the mild meat of the fresh chile.

Now for my gift – the recipe for Mole Poblano! If you have a blender, infatuation with chocolate & pleasant heat, addictive vino palette and a curiosity for cooking . . . grab a stiff cab and “work it out” with a wooden spoon. With that I wish you blessings from the spice Gods till next week (I promise I’ll be here)

Mole Poblano
Ingredients
• 1/4 pound sesame seeds
• Olive oil, for cooking
• 1/4 pound roasted almonds
• 1/4 pound walnuts
• 3 bananas or ripe plantains
• 1 pound raisins
• 1/4 pound tomatoes
• 1 pound fire roasted poblano chiles, rehydrated in water
• 1 teaspoon each: anise seeds, star anise, allspice
• 1 tablespoon each: canela, fennel seed, thyme, black pepper
• 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate
• 1 ounce coffee/fine grind
• Salt to taste

Directions
In a medium saute pan, toast sesame seeds and place in food processor. In same saute pan add oil and fry almonds. Remove almonds, place in food processor, and fry walnuts. Remove peanuts, place in food processor, and fry plantains. Remove plantains, place in food processor, and fry raisins. Remove raisins and place in food processor. Remove all but one tablespoon oil and fry tomatoes.
In a food processor grind together sesame seeds, almonds, peanuts, plantains, raisins, tomatoes, poblanos, aniseeds, and cinnamon; this is the mole. Thin with left over chile water. In large saucepan, heat oil. Add mole and cook in oil to bring out flavors. Add chocolate & coffee

1 comment:

  1. This sounds absolutely yummy. Thanks Chef! Can't wait to try it.

    ReplyDelete